there are many different blogging styles, personally i prefer to sporadically write long grandiose semi-autobiographical posts, integrating tangential rambles as i see fit. overall i hope to keep things interesting both for me and for you, since boring writing is written bored, i won't waste time with any quotidian diary posts like "i went to the store and bought a thing", every post here will try to be at least as interesting as "i accidentally discovered a new species of crustacean" or "i went to an odd restaurant" or "i got marooned on the moon" or "dang the united inflight magazine is kinda wacky", the kind of stuff i might still be recounting/ranting about to people at a bar in ten years. everything is guaranteed to be at least 90% true, certain details have been changed to protect individuals involved and to make me appear cooler (and my enemies less so).
note: starting 4/2/26, new content will be on substack
devoted readers will know that we take april first Very Seriously around here... so allow me to be Very Serious here for a post. i've never acknowledged site anniversaries before but the fourth one is coming up next month... in fact if anything i've been trying to avoid thinking about them because the first thing that comes to mind is always "well, another wasted year".
4.1
days: 57 (8/6-10/1)
posts: 17
word count: 70,219
money spent: i will not be adding this up...
somewhere up in tohoku, i breached the "danger zone" of my remaining line of credit, in fact one evening i even had to perform an emergency capital infusion lest my card get declined trying to book accomodations for the night resigned, in my safely-secured business hotel room that night, i finally sealed my fate and booked my flight out of japan...
passing through koriyama station during one of the many transfers required on my tohoku main line local train odyssey from ueno to sendai, my eye was caught by a sun-stained advertisement for a regional attraction, abukuma cave. if it isn't yet abundantly clear, i'm something of a stimulation-seeker when it comes to my nature excursions...
everyone has their japan travel fantasies; mine was to ride one of those little scooters through the bucolic japanese countryside, preferably on a narrow road flanked by bright green rice paddies. though i am in no way trained, qualified, or endorsed to ride any variety of motorized two-wheeled vehicle...
1.24
i hadn't been making my way back to tokyo along the tokaido for no reason, what had kicked off that trip was something that had happened the same day of my too-long inuyama castle visit and my too-brief meiji mura tour: i had accepted an invite from shibs to accompany him and an old school friend on a little trip to choshi the next weekend...
1.22kyou was another sugoi day in nippon. first, i went to book-off to browse used manga as usual...
11.28
following the near-disaster on the nakasendo, it was clear that in order to keep up this trip i'd have to make a pit stop in tokyo sooner rather than later in order to shed the additional pack weight i'd picked up along my journey. though i could always get to tokyo by going back down the nakasendo in the opposite direction, i was now within close proximity of another historic road leading back to tokyo: the tokaido...
11.18
upon escaping matsumoto, i headed down towards the only thing in the area i had left on my to-do list: back to the nakasendo. i was eager for a chance at redemption after having completely failed to hike it over usui pass into karuizawa, where instead we'd ended up on a combination of the old usui pass rail line through the tunnels and the curvy historic route 18 road. but usui pass was not the only segment of the nakasendo i had on my list...
11.10
for my friend's last night in japan, we splurged a little and stayed at a spa resort, by which i mean "shinshu health land", an aging bathhouse-centered hotel a few stops south of matsumoto. it's possibly the least-fashionable hotel in the entire matsumoto basin, the interior was a flawless time capsule of the nineties...
10.30
10.23
after kanazawa oktoberfest, we went back to the station, retrieved our bags, and caught the local train for toyama, where we were going to stay the night. the next day was going to be climactic, the plan was that i was finally going to do something big that i had been putting off for a long time: i was going to drive in japan for the first time ever...
10.21you might think that after our grueling hike up usui pass to karuizawa, we'd stay the night there. unfortunately, karuizawa is a hot resort destination for japanese tourists and staying there is pretty expensive, plus we had places to be, so we ended up staying the night at a different ka-zawa, kanazawa. "but wait, that is almost 300km away on the other side of two mountain ranges!"...
10.15
it felt like i'd barely done anything in japan before i suddenly found myself rushing back to tokyo to find somewhere else to store my suitcase, i could no longer keep it at my friends' airbnb because they were leaving, which meant that i was officially one month into the trip. i had known since the start that i was going to be playing the long game so i hadn't really been in a hurry to get moving, i didn't really care that i had basically squandered my first twenty days in japan just farting around in tokyo...
10.12